The following history of the Big Point settlement was presented at the 100th anniversary celebration in 1994, by Sigga Johannson Moore.  Sigga was a daughter of one of the original settlers at Big Point, Arni Johannson.  The celebration was held at the site of the original Big Point Hall, "Herdubreid Hall", 3˝ miles East of Langruth, Manitoba, where a Cairn commemorating the original Icelandic settlers was placed that year.

------- Dr Allan M Johnson

Big Point - One Hundred Years!

1894 - 1994

 

by Sigga Johannson Moore

 

In 1894, 40 families called Big Point their home. It was the centre of their social life. Many had come from Churchbridge, Saskatchewan. Some came in a caravan of covered wagons and some in open wagons. Some were driving cattle so they had fresh milk. They slept under the wagons or under the sky. The journey took many days and they were completely oblivious to the fact they were passing over the most fertile land in Manitoba, later called the Portage Plains. There was no manna from heaven, but it was better than what they had left behind - a land where the ash from the volcano destroyed all vegetation each time it erupted. Many continued on north and settled in Leifur and on Bird's Island, but soon gravitated to Big Point. Actually, the four families who settled in 1894 were Bjarni and Sigridur Davidson, David and Gudbjorg Valdimarson, Asmundur and Kristjana Guttormson, and Tryggvi and Margret Jonasson.

All did not farm on the point; many coming from Hollywood, Marshland, Lakeland and even Westbourne. This was because with the building of the Herdubreid Hall, Big Point became the focal point of activity. There was the Lutheran Congregation, a cemetery, a school, a post office and an Icelandic Library.

They built their houses and outbuildings of logs and acquired animals, including sheep, of course. Those at a distance from the lake had difficulty because of a water shortage, so well drillers were brought in. It was necessary to drill 80-100 feet to reach water and then it was so loaded with chemicals it was not potable.

It must be acknowledged these immigrants knew fishing and sheep-raising, but when the railroad came in 1908 there was a change. They began to clear the land - a difficult and onerous task with only an axe and a plough. They knew hard work and they persevered.

Farming went well till 1923 when first too much rain and later too much heat ruined the harvest. The other enemies were 'rust' and weeds. Then the price of wheat went down with the 1929 crash and there was the Depression. Some almost lost their farms but all survived. In winter, they supplemented their income by fishing on Lake Manitoba. Temperature was 30 to 40 degrees below zero (F), and chopping through 2 feet of ice took stamina. A board was employed to push the net 20 feet or so and then another hole must be chopped - a regulation net is 240 fed long. After the advent of the jigger, setting nets went much more quickly. Often if the nets were set too early, the north wind might break up the ice and carry ice, nets and all away with it. This would be a great loss, as outfitting for winter fishing is a costly venture. Since fish markets were far away, all fish had to be frozen thus fetching a lower price. Fortunately, these new settlers had grit and brawn and sturdiness of character.

While the men knew all about fishing (though the women usually seamed the net to the side line) the women knew all about wool. Every farmer had a few sheep (with herd law, the sheep had to be fenced in and page wire was expensive) and when they were sheared, the best fleeces were selected for home use - some white, some brown or black. For washing, pure soap was used to preserve the lanolin in the wool. Often the soaped wool was taken to the lake to be rinsed as it was imperative all soap be removed.

When it had dried, the wool was teased, removing grass, buffs or any foreign matter. Then carded (2 flat surfaces loaded with pins) which task, children often performed. Then it was ready to be spun. It was disappointing that Canadian wool was so short. Icelandic sheep have strands 8 or 9 inches long and therefore much easier to spin. Some brought spinning wheels from Iceland, but fortunately some wood workers copied the Icelandic wheel which is very different to the Scottish. Mitts, socks, toques and scarves were knitted by hand, but there were also knitting machines available. These speeded up the process and made it possible to produce underwear - shirts and pants. From the hide of the sheep, slippers were made - also insoles.

Whether they slaughtered sheep, hogs or cattle there was a similar process. Every part of the animal was utilized - blood sausage, liver sausage, rolled flank, (spiced) and singed head and feet (of sheep only) were boiled and later pickled. Since there were no freezers, meat was salted (salt petre added) and it had the appearance of our smoked or spiced beef of today. Both meat and fish were smoked. However, in the 1930's Carl F. Lindal organized a portable butcher shop, so fresh meat became available once a week. Similarly, the advent of the cream truck meant the cream went directly from farm to creamery.

Everyone had a vegetable garden and the potato patch was large enough for the winter's supply. The single plough adapted well to a small area. All varieties of vegetable were grown and many could be used late into the fall.

Laundry day must have been dreaded by pioneer women. Since the well water was so hard, they depended on rain water or snow melted and heated on the wood stove. After some work on the wash board, a boil in the large copper boiler, 2 rinses and a bluing, they were ready for the clothes line or fence. The white lace curtains were special! After being heavily starched, they were put on stretchers, which had piercingly sharp pins on which each scallop was placed. The plus was: no ironing! Sad irons heated on the wood stove made ironing a slow go.

Since only staples were available at Smalley's store in Westbourne, bread making was a necessary chore. The yeast - a dry cake had a very slow rising agent. So the bread had to be set the previous evening giving the yeast time to become activated. Perhaps while the bread was rising the next day, attention could be given to churning butter - using either the dasher churn or the rotating barrel.

Berry picking was a must. There were wild raspberries, strawberries and high bush cranberries in abundance. These were canned for winter use, as were saskatoons. However, these 'blueberries', as the Icelanders called them, were a great disappointment. This small pulpy berry is so unlike a blueberry. But they were utilized since nothing could be wasted.

Before 1920, babies were registered (if registered at all) in the municipalities of Westbourne or Gladstone. But then the six wards of Lakeview were created and Big Point was Ward III. Early councillors were: Finnbogi Erlendson, Magnus Peterson and Steini Olson.

It is interesting to note that the Langruth Agricultural Society was well represented by: Magnus Peterson, Jon Valdimarson and Bodvar Johnson.

The Independant Order of Good Templers was organized in 1920 by Arinbjorn Bardal of Winnipeg. Its purpose was to maintain abstinence and temperance. Its name was Vorbloom" (Spring Flower). It ceased to exist in 1917.

When telephones were installed, during the First World War, Big Point was on one party line and the rings went all the way to "6-long". It wasn't until the Second World War that electricity became available. Finally, they had refrigeration for dairy products and meat.

The Pioneers had hewn down trees, ploughed the land, dug wells and built homes. They began with logs, a mud floor and turf roofs; then graduated to lumber and shingles. The first modem homes were built by Bodvar Johnson and Jon Thordarson and both had central heating and electricity!

The Market

At first residents were forced to go to Westbourne to dispose of their products such as cream and eggs. That was also where they purchased their staples. Being 20 miles, the journey took almost 4 days. Although it was not called a Halfway House, the home of Thidrk and Gudrun Eyvindson became an overnight stopping place. The horses were fed and men kept overnight. Later, when Olafur Thorleifson opened a store at Big Point, shopping became easier. He was a carpenter and did many kinds of repairs, especially clocks and watches. An Icelandic ditty refers to his having carried cotton (fabrics) white and blue; sugar from Chicago (pronounced See-ga-go) and sweet biscuits from Toronto.

The green coffee beans came in 20 pound bags and had to be roasted. The quality of coffee depended greatly on how sophisticated you were in the roasting process. Every household had a hand operated coffee grinder. The coffee was made by pouring boiling water over the coffee through a cotton bag, often called a 'sock'!

No medical doctor took up residence at Big Point. There were 2 housewives who delivered babies. One is said to have delivered over 300 babies successfully. These midwives would remain in the home for at least 10 days or until the new mother was able to care for her baby. Seldom was there any remuneration - very often a gift of crystal or of silver. In case of serious illness, a doctor would be called from Gladstone (30 miles). The only mode of transportation was by a team of horses, which meant a long wait for the patient. Later, people were able to go directly to Winnipeg by train. There at the General Hospital were several fine Icelandic doctors. Several doctors came to Langruth, but it was not a lucrative position. More frequently, it was Bonnie (Polson) Bjarnason, an angel of mercy, who in her own car fought her way through ice and snow to help the ailing. One may assume that the imbursement was light in her pocket (letti i vasan).

Roads

Road building presented a real problem, due to all the flooding and the composition of the clay. In low places, a corduroy system was utilized --- rails were laid crosswise as a road bed. Even these were often washed away. When a drainage ditch was completed from the Ridge almost to the lake, the south bank became the road. On a rainy day, it was very slippery, but the ruts help keep the car out of that ditch. No doubt the advent of the automobile forced the government to invest more in road improvement.

It has often been said that life must have been very boring - little excitement, a lot of work and living "hand to mouth". But no! They were all literate (Iceland has the world's highest literacy - almost 100%). They had brought with them as many books as the wooden box (kofort) would hold - a Bible, Evensong (Kvšld Lestra) and some of the sagas. All this reminded them of their homeland and how they longed for it and the family they left behind. Very few ever returned to see their own "Heima" (home), which is how they always referred to Iceland.

They mounted plays, had poetry readings, first in Icelandic and later in English. There were concerts and tombolas followed by dancing.

They had 2 Icelandic newspapers, which sparked many an argumant - one liberal, the other conservative, namely Logberg and Heimskringla.

Occasionally, notable visitors came. Sveinbjorn Sveinbjornsson was a pianist who received his training in Germany and spent most of his musical career in Scotland. Then, he later immigrated to Canada and gave recitals in Icelandic communities! When Mattias Jachumsson wrote the words for the National Anthem, he went to Scotland to ask Sveinbjorn to compose the melody, which he did masterfully.

Vilhjalmur Stefansson, the well known Arctic explorer (the last of the dog-team explorers) spent some time from 1908 to 1912 among the Inuit. He wanted to prove that it was possible to live entirely on raw seal, whale and fish and still remain in good health. The government funds were not made available at that time so he went to Icelandic communities, told of his experiences and sold pictures and trinkets to raise money for another expedition into the north.

The arrival of door to door peddlers caused excitement, be it Watkins, Rawleigh, fabrics or books. All the family gathered around as he showed his wares. Watkins and Rawleigh's specialized in spices and patent medicine. Often these men needed overnight accommodation. Since Icelandic hospitality dictated that no fee be charged, the peddler would leave a hostess gift; probably something he had in abundance. But of what use would curry or celery salt be to a recent immigrant from Iceland? The fabric man with his big bulging suitcases was a boon to the housewife. He carried cotton in dress lengths, appropriate colors for dress shirts and various gingham materials for children. This time the hostess gift might be a piece of material that had seen many months of display. Rarely were there book salesmen. If so, their books were of a religious nature.

Reading was an avocation and soon everyone was reading. They subscribed to Free Press Prairie Farmer, Farmer's Advocate, Nor'West Farmer, Montreal Family and Weekly Star. Of course Eaton's and Simpson's catalogues came "gratis".

Herdubreid Hall

Probably the most unifying event in the history of Big Point was the building of Herdubreid Hall, used for church concerts, plays, meetings, weddings (even a double wedding in 1911), funerals and as the locale for the Dominion Day celebration beginning in 1903. It stood on the NW comer of Section 24-Township 16-Range 9 on land owned by Bjarni Ingimundsson. It was 24' x 44' and built of logs hewn by these willing settlers. In 1910, it was replaced by a lumber building the same size except for a 'lean to' extended 12 feet, which area accommodated the kitchen and cloakroom. This cloakroom was used for more than wraps; sometimes the floor was almost covered with little children sleeping, while the parents "tripped the light fantastic". There was a 2-foot stage for plays and a pulpit. In 1916 they built a stable 26' x 44'. It was built of lumber and was a necessity as horses could not be left outside after a long journey when they were very hot and sweating. To raise money they put on concerts, dances and tombolas.

Halldor Danielsson, our historian of 1924, claims that events for the most part went without incident. That could be disputed. It was the time of Prohibition and often bottles of home-brew were hidden here and there and could well be mistaken for the wood alcohol Bjarni used in lighting the gasoline lamps. These were suspended from the very high ceiling and the mantles were no more than ash. When in summer the nocturnal creatures became too curious and destroyed the mantle, the gasoline flowed to the floor. The gasoline was turned off, a fresh mantle tied up, flamed, allowed to cool and then everything could be lighted up again.

It was typical of these new Canadians to choose Dominion Day - July 1st - as a time to celebrate their appreciation. The story is told that one older citizen would not apply for the Old Age Pension. He claimed Canada had done much for him and therefore owed him nothing. Later he relented.

Other communities celebrated "Islendingadag", but Big Pointers celebrated being residents of Canada. The first was held in 1903 and of course at Herdubreid Hall. They already had 2 very tall swings for the children. Then, they built a temporary stand using poplar branches to shade them from the sun. They sold oranges, bananas, lemonade, candy and ice cream-cone 10˘, dish 5˘.

There were races for all ages with variations - tug of war and Icelandic wrestling (Glima). In the afternoon, there was a formal presentation with toasts to Canada, Iceland and to Western Icelanders! There would be a speaker of note, of course of Icelandic descent, and music, singing and often a pageant with a message. The whole program was aimed at the necessity of being good and honourable citizens, loyal to Canada and having great respect for authority; and of course all government officials.

At the conclusion of these festivities, long tables were set on the stage loaded with sandwiches, cakes, cookies, doughnuts (kleinur) and prune torte (vinaterta). All sat down to visit and drink coffee. But the revelry had to end as there were chores to be done - cows to be milked and animals and chickens to be fed. The crowd dispersed, but some returned to dance. There were many musical families so there was always music. Sometimes Indians helped out, and they fiddled very well for Square Dances. In those days, the young people danced till daylight. This was fine for the horses, who had their rest while their owners danced the night away.

Lutheran Congregation (Herdubried Sofnudur)

In 1906, the Herdubreid congregation came into being. Before that time, (Rev.) Sera Oddur Gislason had ministered at intervals. By 1912, they had built a manse in Langruth (cost of $1,250). They called Sera Bjarni Thorarinsson, as a full time pastor. Following him, Sera Carl Olson, who was minister in Gimli, came to preach occasionally. It was a rule of thumb that when you had lived through 13 Christmases, you must be confirmed, or take your vows. The children were prepared through the Sunday School. Then, a minister came for a week and had all day sessions with the confirmands. They were tested on the catechism, Bible verses, hymns and general knowledge of the Bible. Then followed the Confirmation Service, with the girls all in white, the boys in suits and ties and a very serious day it was. In turn, each person took 3 vows, e.g. "Do you deny the devil and all his works?" Communion followed and you were a member of the Lutheran Evangelical Church.

In 1917, Sera Sigurdur Christopherson came to serve the congregation of 200 members. The first Chairman of the board was Jon Thordarson, 1906-1916, followed by Agust Eyolfson and Finnbogi Erlendson. Halldor Danielson was Secretary and Bjarni Ingimundson, Treasurer. The name Herdubreid came from a distinct and isolated mountain in central Iceland. Later the name was changed to Grace Lutheran. The people of Big Point gave their full support to the building of the church in Langruth.

The cemetery is less than a half mile south of where the Hall stood. Funerals were carried on in the Icelandic fashion. The body remained in the home till a box was built. (Later the coffin came from Portage la Prairie by train.) The laying out of the corpse was done by a few special friends. The funeral service was in 3 parts - 1) Hus-kvedja- "House-parting" a service of farewell where the deceased had lived, 2) open casket and full service in the Hall, 3) the committal in the graveyard. A nearby neighbour would likely invite the bereaved to their home for coffee. Quite frequently complete strangers chose to be buried in this Icelandic cemetery. It made no difference - the neighbours would come to the assistance of the bereaved to make them as comfortable as possible.

Post Office

One wonders how they got mail because there was no post office till 1898. It was named Wild Oak, because of the oak trees that sprang up on old beaches of Lake Manitoba. This is not to be confused with the Big Ridge (Highway 50) and Little Ridge, which are former beaches of Lake Agassiz. That is the very road which was used by the pioneers when trekking north. Big Point Hall sat on a slight old sand ridge, and the yard was sandy and always dry (an old Lake Manitoba beach).

There may have been other mail carriers, but for many years Jon Loftson delivered from Westbourne to the Hudson Bay Post at Kinesota. The Wild Oak Post Office was always in private homes. First at David Valdimarson's home, then at Gisli Johnson's and finally at Bjarni Eastman's. It was not closed until 1917, although Langruth had acquired a Post Office in 1911 with  Bjorn (Barney) Bjarnasson as the first postmaster.

It would be remiss not to mention the popularity of post cards in the early part of this century. The postage was 01˘, but often they were hand delivered. Many of these cards were made in southern Europe but many were of buildings in our cities.  One with Big Point showed white birch, which is not even found near Lake Manitoba.

Library

After just 4 years (1898), they decided they must have a library. Halldor Danielson instigated the project, was the librarian and there is no doubt it must have been his devotion to this work that so many books were acquired. They had a membership of 30-40, the fee was 50˘ per family and they owned 514 Icelandic books. In the 1940's, the books were in the care of Joe Johanson Sr., and they were all later donated to the University of Manitoba.

School

The same year the library was inaugurated, it became obvious a school was required. In Iceland, there were very few schools, so most of the pioneers had been taught their native language by their parents, an old grandmother and perhaps the minister staying for a day or two. So the children of the pioneers had learned to read and write their own language at home. Since both languages are phonetic, the switch to English was not that difficult. So without any government help the pioneers cut down trees and built a log school. Eleven years later, they replaced it with a lumber building. Due to an increase in population, an addition to the school was required. But only for 4 years (1910-1913), were the 2 rooms used. Thereafter, the second room was by no means useless. In the cold winter and on rainy days, the children played there during recesses and noon hour. In the spring and fall, all children played baseball.

The 2 teachers who were first there were both English  ---  Mr. Ross and Mr. D. Windsor.  D.Windsor was extremely brutal and strapped the children if they spoke Icelandic on the playground. The trustees in their wisdom sought Icelandic teachers, as you will see by this list: Johann Magnus Bjarnason, Winnipeg and Marshland (poet and author of many books); Magnśs Hjaltalin, Winnipeg (later a medical doctor); Jonina Fredricks, local (Mrs. Bjorn Halldorsson); Jon Hanneson, local (hardware merchant); Maria Thorleifson, local (Mrs. Hall Hanneson); Eyolfina Gottfred, local (Mrs. G. Thorleifson); Gudlaug Guttormsson, Husavik (Mrs. Skafti Arason); Sigurlina Johnson, Marshland (Mrs. K. Backman); J. Magnus Anderson; Ingibjorg Thorsteinson, local (Mrs. Ernest Marteinson); Hilda Johnson (author, Mrs. Stefan Guttormson); Margret Hanson, Reykjavik (Mrs. Ragnar Johnson (Wapah); Magnusina Magnusson, Marshland (Mrs. Oli Hanneson); Havardur Eliasson, Westbourne (Manager, Heimskringla); Johannes Eiriksson, Winnipeg (B.A. University of Manitoba); Sigmundur Thompson, local (son of Bjarni Thompson); Hlif Johnson, Lundar (Mrs. Helgi Thompson); Johanna Thompson, local (Mrs. Calvert Thompson); William I. Olson, Langruth (son of Steini B. Olson); Pauline Johnson, Lundar (sister of Hlif Thompson); Margaret Olson, Winnipeg (daughter of Rev. Carl Olson); Gudrun Skulason, Arborg (Mrs. Gordon McInnis).

When in 1912, the brick school was built in Langruth, a high school was provided (matriculation). Unfortunately, in 1929, the staff was cut back and Grade XI was eliminated. This was a great loss to the whole community as so many very capable young people were not given an opportunity to earn a High School Diploma. The whole district depended on that one High School, so its young folk lost out. Only a very few had the opportunity to go away to attain eleventh grade.

Although the Big Point school was centrally located, some had to walk quite a distance. In the early days, when the lake was high, the children often removed their shoes to wade across a slough. There was a horse stable at the school, so some drove a buggy or a sleigh; others rode horseback. Sometimes when sleigh dogs were out of lake service or a donkey or a bike, anything was better than walking.

After ploughing through the snow banks for a mile or two or three, it would have helped to have a warm school to enter. Some brilliant salesman came up with the most impractical stove ever made and it took hours to heat the school room. The ceiling was at least 10 feet high, so that added to the problem. You did music without an instrument (just listened to records for Music Appreciation). Art  without pictures (a few perhaps in a book) and Science without equipment (maybe acid and alkaline for the litmus paper). But Mathematics and Grammar were taught thoroughly and perhaps that was most important.

It is sad to report that until the 30's only 2 persons in this community gained university degrees. They were Bjarni Thordarson and Sigurd Ingimundson.

The Entrepreneurs

Here follows a list of the enterprising young men - all from Big Point who established places of business in Langruth in 1911 - making life much easier for the pioneers. Bjorn Bjarnason, Freeman Helgasson and Soffaias Helgasson opened a general store.  Finnbogi and Erlendson erected a second general store, which later contained the first 'Central' for the Manitoba Telephone System. Steini B. Olson established a lumber business. Gudni Thorleifson opened a blacksmith shop and later an implement dealership. Magnus Johnson (son of Gisli) operated a barber shop and pool room; Krislaug Valdimarson had a millinery shop and later a confectionery.

Most important had been the fine community feeling - everyone helping everyone! By 1915, 6 children, all girls, had lost their mothers but were given homes. No formal adoption - just a fine home and each one retained her own given name and her surname, so kept her identity. Loners were accepted and perhaps allowed to work for their board till something became available. A blind man with his 2 cows was given shelter in several homes, so he could remain independent. Immigrants (single men) were required to work on farms for a year or two after their arrival. The pay was only $5.00 a month, but they received much more - woolen socks and mitts, their clothing cared for and they were treated like members of the family. A farm house burned down and immediately neighbours opened their homes to the children and supplied clothing, etc.  Later, the community assisted in rebuilding the home.

This truly was a "Love your neighbour" kind of settlement. It was frugal living; all were in the same boat and there was no such thing as "keeping up with the Jones". By now Langruth was prospering. People were moving into town, some to other areas and death was taking the first generation.

The hall was used less. The church services, weddings and funerals were in Grace Luthern in Langruth. All entertainment was in the Langruth Hall with dances - sometimes every week. With the excellent music of several members of the S.B. Olson family and others, people came from other towns and villages. So the hall was sold and removed. After the Second World War, a cairn was unveiled in recognition of the pioneers of Big Point.  Now this location has been designated  as a Historical Site and will be further inscribed - a plaque on the original cairn. This is an honour! School attendance dwindled, so the Big Point school was closed. In 1984, a cairn was erected on that site, so it would not be forgotten. The school building was sold. Only the cemetery is constant. It bears the Big Point name and much appreciation is due to all the committees through the years that have striven to maintain its appearance and make it a pride of the community.

So ends the tale. Now only 4 Icelandic families claim the Point as their home. But there is now 'Big Point Retreat', where 40 families have cottages on the shores of Lake Manitoba. So in 1994, on the anniversary of 100 years of settlement at Big Point, we gather again to honour our ancestors for their industry and diligence, for their unswerving determination to withstand the elements and for being steadfast in their faith. They toss us the torch, leaving us a great legacy. Their pluck and perseverance is an inspiration.

We honour their memory!

With appreciation,

Sigga Johannson Moore

 

 

References

Olafur S. Thorgeirsson Almanak 1924.

Pioneer Sketches, S.B. Olson.

A Tribute to Soldiers and Pioneers of the Langruth District.

Langruth - Along the Crocus Trail.

Clifford Johanson.